Lhotse stands at 8516 M, making it the fourth highest mountain in the world. It is situated at the border of Tibet and Nepal. Its long east-west crest is located immediately south of Mount Everest, and the South Col, a vertical ridge that never drops below 8,000m, connects the summits of the two mountains. Lhotse has three summits: Lhotse Main 8516m, Lhotse Shar 8383m, and Lhotse Middle or East 8413m.Sometimes mistakenly Lhotse has been identified as the south peak of the Everest massif. No serious attention was given to climbing Lhotse until Everest had finally been ascended. Lhotse first climbed in 1956 as an alternative route towards the summit of Everest.

Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger who were part of a Swiss expedition first climbed Main Lhotse in 1956. Sepp Mayerl and Rolf Walter first climbed Lhotse Shar on December 5, 1979, by taking the SE-ridge.

A deep scar, an icy gully known as the Lhotse Couloir, marks The West Face of Lhotse; the couloir is the crucial test to the Lhotse climb, mainly because of the climbing conditions of the couloir are affected by weather and seasonal snowfall. The route progresses through Khumbu icefall. Moving further, we will reach Camp 1 that exists at the top of Khumbu icefall that is surrounded by crevasses. From Camp 1, we will pass through lateral moraine to the west ridge that greets us with a close-up view of Lhotse. This place is perfect for Camp2. Leaving Camp2, we will reach near to Lhotse wall by crossing glacier and ice cliffs where we will set Camp3. Camp4 is located near to South Col. From Camp 4, we will proceed through steep rock sections to the summit.

Lhotse Expedition 2021: Consider Climbing Lobuche for Extra Acclimatization

For people with a sufficient time frame, an excursion to nearby Lobuche Peak, 6119m, is a great way to ensure you are well acclimatized before you start the Lhotse Expedition.

Highlights:

  • Climb the fourth highest mountain in the world Mount Lhotse (8816m)
  • Recorded as one of the most challenging climb in the world.
  • Opportunity to embark on an epic route to the top of Everest set by  mountain legends Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa in 1953.
  • To see the flora and fauna of high Himalaya.
  • Experience the real life standard of world famous climbers, the Sherpa people.
  •  Witness the highest altitude hotel in the world, The Everest Hotel, highest Altitude Airport & Everest Base Camp.
  • Witness the other 8000m peaks including Mount Everest.
  •  Guide and led by experienced Everest summiteers High Altitude Climbing Guide.

Trip Itinerary

Fixed Departure

From To Status Price  
Start Date08/04/2022 End Date24/05/2022 guaranteed US $15500 Book Now

What is included


  • Arrival and Departure: Airport - Hotel transfer – Airport (Pick Up and Drop).
  • Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu: 4 nights hotel in Kathmandu (3-star category) on bed & breakfast Sharing Basis (Twin Bed Room).
  • Welcome Dinner: One Welcome Dinner in tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Office’s Staffs.
  • Cargo Clearance: International Air cargo clearance of Member Personal Luggage & Payment of Government taxes in Nepal. *before the expedition
  • Permit: Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Lhotse, Sagarmatha National Park permit, TIMS CARD & Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality entry Permit and its fee.
  • Khumbu Ice Fall Climbingcharge to (SPCC) Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee.
  • Liaison Officer: 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment ($2,500), salary, and accommodation.
  • Garbage Management: Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees.
  • Insurance: Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staff during the trek and expedition.
  • Map: Trekking and climbing map.
  • Member transportation: (*Standard Route Itinerary):(Domestic Flight) Fly from Kathmandu – Lukla and while returning Lukla - Kathmandu, as per itinerary. (*Heli Itinerary): Air Transportation (Domestic Flight): Fly from Kathmandu – Namche Bazaar and trek to Basecamp. While returning fly directly from Everest Basecamp to Kathmandu as per itinerary (with additional cost).
  • Expedition Stuffs Transportation:Necessary all equipment Transportation for all Members and Staffs from Kathmandu to Lukla (by air cargo) and to Base camp (by Porters / Yak) – While returning: Base camp to Lukla (by porters / Yak) and Lukla to Kathmandu (by air cargo). Based on the condition expedition stuff may transfer by land (KTM-Phaplu) or Heli (KTM-Lukla).
  • Member Luggage:Up to 70 Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek carrying by porters or Yaks.
  • Food and Lodging: 3 meals a day (BLD; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge during the trek and at Basecamp. Well-managed base camp set up for members & Staffs.
  • Porter: Porters per member up to Base camp from Lukla & Porters return from Base camp to Lukla.
  • Base Camp Staff: Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen Helpers as required.
  • Staff Salary and allowance: All Nepalese staff & porter’s daily wages, salary, equipment, foods & clothing.
  • Base Camp Equipment: At Base camp: foam mattresses and pillow per member, 1 Dinning Tent, 1 Kitchen Tent, 1 Communication tent, 1 Toilet & 1 Shower Tent, 1 Staffs Tent, 1 Tent for Nepalese base camp staffs, Store tents, Tables & chairs & all necessary cooking gears.
  • Heater: Heater for base camp in each Dining and in other necessary camps.
  • Solar/Generator/Light:1 Solar panel and Generator for lights at base camp, battery charge, for laptop and other electronic devices.
  • High Altitude Climbing Sherpa: 1 veteran and Government Licensed per member. (1 Member: 1 Sherpa).
  • Climbing Sherpa Salary & Allowance: Climbing Sherpa Salary, Equipment, Food, and Clothing
  • Bonus: Carry Bonus of Sherpas and Route Fixing Charges.
  • Oxygen Bottle (O2):Summit Oxygen cylinder: 3 oxygen bottles (4 ltrs.) for each member and 2-oxygen bottles for each high-altitude Sherpa. **
  • Oxygen Mask & Regulator: 1 Set of Summit Oxygen mask and regulator for each member and high-altitude Sherpa.
  • Back up Oxygen Cylinder, mask, and regulator (with appropriate charge).
  • High camp service: High Altitude Tent, Necessary cooking EPI gas, cooking pot, High food for a member, Sherpa and other crews at (C1) (C2) (C3) and (C4). Group climbing gears, fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.
  • Rope Fixing Team: The team of experienced Sherpas will fix the route on Lhotse (no extra charge will be applied to members).
  • Satellite Phone for emergency communication carrying by Sherpa, also available for members with appropriate charge.
  • Walkie-Talkie: Walkie –Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
  • Comprehensive Medical kit for members and staff.
  • Government tax and Company Service Charges

What is not included


  • Air Fare: International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).
  • Nepal entry Visa fee: Nepali Visa fee $60 USD per person for 30 days (to be applied for 60 days is $120 USD).
  • Lunch & Dinner: Lunch & dinner during the stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
  • Extra night in Kathmandu: Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary
  • Insurance: Travel and high altitude insurance, accident, Helicopter medical & emergency evacuation. *Mandatory
  • Rescue Evacuation: Medical and emergency rescue evacuation costs if required. (Rescue, Repatriation, Helicopter, Medication, Medical Tests and Hospitalization costs).
  • Personal Expenses: Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers, and any Alcoholic beverages (during the trek and in Kathmandu but we will soft drinks for members at base camp).
  • Personal Equipment: Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking /Climbing Gears.
  • Toiletries: Soaps, shampoos, toilet and tissue papers, toothpaste, and other items used to keep yourself clean.
  • Filming: Special Filming, Camera and Drone permit fee
  • Internet Service: Not included during the trek.
  • Summit Bonus: Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa- Minimum 1500 USD. (Applies to Full Board Member).
  • Tips: Calculate some tips for Basecamp staff.
  • Rope Fixing: The cost of using fixed rope during the expedition. ($250 USD - Applies to Basecamp Member).
  • Our Company’s Service will be "Zero" above Base Camp (If a company offers just Base Camp services)
  • Extra: Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary.
  • Any other item not listed in the “Cost Includes” section.

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What to Expect

Equipment List

Utmost Adventure has compiled a list of necessary equipment, personal medical supplies and symptoms of medical condition likely to face during trekking / peak climbing. Also, please do understand that items listed below should be considered as an essential summary.
We highly recommend you to be familiar with all of your equipment and basic understanding of medical Conditions related to high elevation.

Your document to travel to Nepal:
Valid passport, 2 extra passport size photos, airline tickets
Separate photocopies of passport, visa form (easily obtained at Kathmandu airport), proof of insurance
Dollars in cash for purchasing Nepalese visa at Kathmandu airport
Credit cards, bank/ATM/cash machine cards for withdrawing funds from cash machines (bring a photocopy of your cards)

Personal Climbing gear:
Harness: A climbing harness should be lightweight and fully adjustable. Easy to put on and take off.
Ice axe: General mountaineering axe. Should be light and easy to use.
Crampons: It must fit boot perfectly and lighter is better.
Carabineers: Two large locking “pear” shaped 4 regular mountaineering carabineers
Prussik cord: You can use in many situation, carry couple more.
Ascenders: One left or right hand orientation, does not matter (Petzl)
Rappel device: Figure 8, ATC or similar. Very important to devices for descending.
Ascender / Jhumar: Must be comfortable to be use with gloves.
Helmet: It is very important to use while crossing areas through rock fall, ice cliff. Better light weight.
Walking pool: Adjustable types are the best, it will be very much helpful while walking through snow field or rocky trail.

Accessories:
Sleeping bag rated to zero degrees F
Headlamp with spare bulbs and batteries
Small pad or combination lock-to-lock trek bag
Basic First Aid Kit (see Health and Medicinal)
Large plastic bags – for keeping items dry inside trek bag
Daypack (approximately 2500 to 3000 cubic inches)
Water bottles
Toiletries
Small wash towel
Rain coat

Personal Clothing items.

Head:
Sun hat or scarf
Light balaclava or warm fleece hat
Sunglasses with UV protection

Upper Body:
T-shirts
Weight thermal tops
Fleece jacket or pullover
Fleece Wind-Stopper jacket (optional)
Waterproof (preferably breathable fabric) shell jacket
Down vest and/or jacket (optional)

Hands:
Lightweight gloves
Heavyweight gloves or mittens with a waterproof shell outer

Lower Body:
Underwear
Hiking shorts
Lightweight cotton long pants
Light and expedition weight thermal bottoms
Fleece or wool pants
Waterproof (preferably breathable fabric) shell pants

Feets:
Thick, warm wool hiking socks
Hiking boots with spare laces
Camp shoes (sneakers and/or sandals)

Personal Hygiene:
Personal hygiene supplies;
Two tubes lip sun cream, at least 1 large tube regular sun cream (min. factor 30), some after-sun lotion in case you do get asunburn
Anti-mosquito cream;
One toothpaste/brush set;
One hand sanitizer gel
1 (fast drying) synthetic towel

Medical Supplies:
Personal prescription medications; Please let your leader know about any medical issues before the climb.
Small personal first-aid kit; (Simple and Light): first-aid tape, plasters (Band-Aids),alcohol-free wipes for cuts, personal medications, etc. (The leaders will have more extensive first-aid kits)
One skin blister repair kit
Anti-diarrhea pills (Imodium) (one regular package)
Anti-headache medication (Aspirin or Ibuprofen) (one regular package)
One small bottle cough and/or cold medicine.
One course antibiotics for chest infection, available locally at chemist shop or pharmacy with no doctor’s prescription.
One course antibiotics for stomach infection, available locally at chemist shop or pharmacy with no doctor’s prescription.
One small bottle anti-altitude sickness medication: Diamox (Acetylzolamide), available locally, for more about this medication, please contact us or your doctor
One small bottle of water purification tablets (needs to contain silver-ions AND chlorine) or a water filter or UV sterilizer.
Earplugs
Extra prescription glasses/contact lens. Contact lens wearers, please bring glasses in case of emergency.

FAQs