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Nanga Parbat is the second highest mountain in Pakistan after K2 and the ninth highest mountain in the world. It is located in Diamir district of Gilgit Baltistan. Nanga Parbat is the western anchor of the Himalaya. It is separated from the Karakoram Range by the mighty Indus River. It rises directly from the Indus valley. Nanga Parbat means “Naked Mountain” in Hindi/Urdu and it refers to the South face’s exposed rock buttresses.
Utmost Adventure Trek organizes a 50-day expedition to Nanga Parbat. We offer full board service until the base camp. The duration may be longer or shorter depending on the clients experience and ability. In Pakistan there are different systems to collect visa for expeditions. Each climber has to collect their Pakistani visa from their own country or nearest country with support of Permit applied documents through Utmost Adventure Trek. So we always need conformation before the end of March for participation in June, July and August.
Our Nanga Parbat Expedition journey starts from Islamabad. Our representative will meet and greet you at the Islamabad International Airport, then transfer you to the hotel for a rest. We will meet in the afternoon for a briefing about the Nanga Parbat Expedition. After a good night sleep in Islamabad, you will head towards Chillas Town via Karakoram Highway. One night in Chillas, then the day after, driving and trekking for 2-3 hours through a quiet richly wooded scenery. You will experience a region of steep hillsides and waterfalls. At some point during the trekking, the view will open up to the valley and the view will leave you speechless thanks to the splendor of that vast face of ice-hung precipices and soaring ridges, sixteen thousand feet from top to toe, filling a whole quarter of the heavens at a distance of only a dozen miles. That is Nanga Parbat. The most beautiful and challenging mountain on earth.
Since the first disastrous British Nanga Parbat expedition led by A. F. Mummery in 1895, mountaineers have tried to ascend its summit through different routes but few lucky ones have succeeded. Nanga Parbat is not a single peak but consists of 20km long series of peaks and ridges culminating in an ice crest of (8,125m). Its South Face known as Rupal Face is 5,000m high, while the North or Raikot Face, over 7,000m from the summit to the Indus, forms one of the world’s deepest gorge. It was first climbed in 1953 by a joint Austrian – German Expedition. Hermann Buhl made the final ascent in a tortuous 41 hours solo ordeal without oxygen. Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner climbed the south face (Rupal Face) with his brother Gunther in 1970, descending by the Diamir face. The south face is the largest in the world extending over four kilometers above base camp. To date, there have been only five ascents from the South.
Nanga Parbat’s isolation means that all ascents must start from a much lower altitude than other 8,000m peaks. The Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka described it as the only mountain that is climbed during all four seasons, from baking summer at its base to minus 40º at the summit. Most attempts nowadays are via the Westerly Diamir face which is generally considered to be the easiest and safest with the Kinshofer Route the normal route. It was successfully climbed in winter on February 2016, by a team consisting of our friend Ali Sadpara, Alex Txikon, and Simone Moro. The second winter ascent was made by Polish Climber Tomasz Mackiewicz and French woman Elisabeth Revol on January 2018.