As per the recent Travel Protocol Released by the Government of Nepal:- On-Arrival Visa Service and No Quarantine rule appliesRead More
Mt. Everest expedition from Tibet side has become more popular among the mountaineers who wish to make their dream coming true: to stand on the summit of Mt. Everest. Among the several reasons, low cost of royalty, basic mountaineering services and the simpler route to the summit are the key factors to attract more Everest climbers from North Col rather than from the South Col of Nepal.
There are no easy routes for Mt. Everest but we try to put the odds on our side. We take the North Ridge because we consider it to be the safest. Technically, it is more challenging than the South Side but does not have the ice fall danger. Our Advanced Base Camp (6,400m) is right under the shadow of Changtse and has a view of virtually the whole route. From here we use four more camps, a formula that has brought us considerable success in the past.
Our trip starts from Kathmandu and drives to Kodari, Zhangmu, Nyalam and continues to the Base Camp at 5,400m. Advanced Base Camp is 22km further, at 6400m, by yaks. We put an intermediate camp on the glacier about half way between BC and ABC, so that this trip takes two days. From the ABC, the route continues up through the East Rongbuk glacier to the north of the glacier and then up easy snow slopes to the North Col at 7,000m.
Highlights of Mt. Everest North Ridge Expedition
Utmost Adventure has compiled for you a list of necessary equipment and personal medical supplies, to face possible symptoms you could get during the trekking or the peak climbing. Please do understand that the items listed below should be considered as an essential summary.
We highly recommend you to be familiar with all of your equipment and a basic understanding of medical conditions related to high elevation.
Your document to travel to Nepal and Tibet:
Valid passport, 2 extra passport size photos, photocopies of passport, visa (better to file the visa form prior departure here Tourist Visa Form and print it out) to pay upon arrival at the airport. Proof of insurance.
Dollars/Euros in cash for purchasing Nepalese visa at Kathmandu airport.
Credit cards, bank/ATM/cash machine cards for withdrawing cash from cash machines (bring a photocopy of your cards).
Utmost Adventure will organize your visa, travel permit for Tibet and expedition permit for Mt. Everest North Ridge.
Personal Climbing gear:
Harness: A climbing harness should be lightweight and fully adjustable. Easy to put on and take off.
Ice axe: General mountaineering axe. Should be light and easy to use.
Crampons: It must fit boot perfectly and lighter is better.
Carabineers: Two large locking “pear” shaped 4 regular mountaineering carabineers
Prussik cord: You can use in many situation, carry couple more.
Ascenders: One left or right hand orientation, does not matter (Petzl)
Rappel device: Figure 8, ATC or similar. Very important to devices for descending.
Ascender / Jhumar: Must be comfortable to be use with gloves.
Helmet: It is very important to use while crossing areas through rock fall, ice cliff. Better light weight.
Walking pool: Adjustable types are the best, it will be very much helpful while walking through snow field or rocky trail.
Sleeping bag rated to zero degrees F
Headlamp with spare bulbs and batteries
Small pad or combination lock-to-lock trek bag
Basic First Aid Kit (see Health and Medicinal)
Large plastic bags – for keeping items dry inside trek bag
Daypack (approximately 2500 to 3000 cubic inches)
Small wash towel
Personal Clothing items.
Sun hat or scarf
Light balaclava or warm fleece hat
Sunglasses with UV protection
Weight thermal tops
Fleece jacket or pullover
Fleece Wind-Stopper jacket (optional)
Waterproof (preferably breathable fabric) shell jacket
Down vest and/or jacket (optional)
Heavyweight gloves or mittens with a waterproof shell outer
Lightweight cotton long pants
Light and expedition weight thermal bottoms
Fleece or wool pants
Waterproof (preferably breathable fabric) shell pants
Thick, warm wool hiking socks
Hiking boots with spare laces
Camp shoes (sneakers and/or sandals)
Personal hygiene supplies;
Two tubes lip sun cream, at least 1 large tube regular sun cream (min. factor 30), some after-sun lotion in case you do get asunburn
One toothpaste/brush set;
One hand sanitizer gel
1 (fast drying) synthetic towel
Personal prescription medications; Please let your leader know about any medical issues before the climb;
Small personal first-aid kit; (Simple and Light): first-aid tape, plasters (Band-Aids), alcohol-free wipes for cuts, personal medications, etc. (The leaders will have more extensive first-aid kits);
One skin blister repair kit;
Anti-diarrhea pills (Imodium) (one regular package);
Anti-headache medication (Aspirin or Ibuprofen) (one regular package);
One small bottle cough and/or cold medicine;
One course antibiotics for chest infection, available locally at pharmacies with no doctor’s prescription;
One course antibiotics for stomach infection, available locally at pharmacies with no doctor’s prescription;
One small bottle anti-altitude sickness medication: Diamox (Acetylzolamide), available locally, for more about this medication, please contact us or your doctor;
One small bottle of water purification tablets (needs to contain silver-ions AND chlorine), available locally at pharmacies with no doctor’s prescription, or a water filter or UV sterilizer;
Extra prescription glasses/contact lens. Contact lens wearers, please bring glasses in case of emergency.