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Mt. Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world and is located in the Dhaulagiri Himal, a subrange of the Himalayas in North-Central Nepal. Dhaulagiri means “White Mountain”. Dhaulagiri forms the eastern anchor of the Dhaulagiri Himal, in the Dhaulagiri Zone, North-West of Pokhara, an important regional town and tourist center. Across the deep gorge of the Kali Gandaki it lies the Annapurna Himal, one of the other eight-thousanders.
After its discovery in 1808 by the western world, Dhaulagiri was thought to be the highest mountain in the world. This lasted for 30 years before Dhaulagiri’s place was replaced by Kanchenjunga.
In terms of rise above local terrain, Dhaulagiri is almost unique in the world. Indeed, it rises 7000m over the Kali Gandaki gorge to the southeast in about 30km of horizontal distance. The Kali Gandaki is greatly special since Dhaulagiri and Annapurna both stand near the river, giving a unique example of two eight-thousanders facing each other over a deep valley.
The South Face of Dhaulagiri is also a massive drop; it is approximately a 4000m wall, and it has been the site of some epic climbs.
Dhaulagiri was first climbed on May 13, 1960 by Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorji and Nawang Dorji, members of a Swiss/Austrian expedition. The expedition leader was Max Eiselin; they used the Northeast Ridge route. This was also the first Himalayan climb supported by an airplane. The airplane, a Pilatus PC-6, crashed during the approach and was later abandoned on the mountain.
The vast majority of ascents have been through the first ascent route, which is the “Normal Route” on the mountain. However, nowadays, ascents have been made from almost every direction.
Highlights of Dhaulagiri Expedition:
We will be staying at 3 star hotel in Kathmandu, and fully camping basis while trekking and climbing. All rooms are twin-shared bedrooms. Single bedrooms will be arranged on request and with additional cost. Utmost Adventure will arrange rooms with private bathrooms; however, while camping there will be tented shower and bathroom.
In Kathmandu, breakfast will be available. There will also be a welcome and a farewell dinner organized for our guests. During the trekking, all meals will be provided, including tea and coffee prepared by our cook. We will have breakfast and dinner in the camping area, whereas we will spend lunch on our way to next destination. The menu will offer both authentic Nepalese, Tibetan and continental meals.
Mount Dhaulagiri Expedition is a strenuous expedition. Climbers who can walk/climb up to 5-6 hours a day on an uphill and downhill trail will find this expedition fulfilling. It is best that we prepare ourselves for the Dhaulagiri Expedition by climbing, jogging and exercising regularly at least couple months prior to the start of the expedition. Climbing to the Mt. Dhaulagiri should be relatively fine for those who have experience climbing/trekking in a high altitude environment. Past climbing, hiking experience would be an asset because technical skill is required for this trip. Participants with pre-existing medical conditions such as heart, lung, and blood diseases should inform Utmost Adventure before booking the trek.
The best time for expedition to Mt. Dhaulagiri is during spring (April to May) and autumn ( September to October). The temperature is moderate and guarantees amazing views throughout the trip. Although this expedition can be undertaken during winter, the cold temperature might not be suitable for everyone.
Utmost Adventure has compiled for you a list of necessary equipment and personal medical supplies, to face possible symptoms you could get during the trekking or the peak climbing. Please do understand that the items listed below should be considered as an essential summary.
We highly recommend you to be familiar with all of your equipment and a basic understanding of medical conditions related to high elevation.
Your document to travel to Nepal:
Valid passport, 2 extra passport size photos, photocopies of passport, visa (better to file the visa form prior departure here Tourist Visa Form and print it out) to pay upon arrival at the airport. Proof of insurance.
Dollars/Euros in cash for purchasing Nepalese visa at Kathmandu airport.
Credit cards, bank/ATM/cash machine cards for withdrawing cash from cash machines (bring a photocopy of your cards).
Personal Climbing gear:
Harness: A climbing harness should be lightweight and fully adjustable. Easy to put on and take off.
Ice axe: General mountaineering axe. Should be light and easy to use.
Crampons: It must fit boot perfectly and lighter is better.
Carabineers: Two large locking “pear” shaped 4 regular mountaineering carabineers
Prussik cord: You can use in many situation, carry couple more.
Ascenders: One left or right hand orientation, does not matter (Petzl)
Rappel device: Figure 8, ATC or similar. Very important to devices for descending.
Ascender / Jhumar: Must be comfortable to be use with gloves.
Helmet: It is very important to use while crossing areas through rock fall, ice cliff. Better light weight.
Walking pool: Adjustable types are the best, it will be very much helpful while walking through snow field or rocky trail.
Sleeping bag rated to zero degrees F
Headlamp with spare bulbs and batteries
Small pad or combination lock-to-lock trek bag
Basic First Aid Kit (see Health and Medicinal)
Large plastic bags – for keeping items dry inside trek bag
Daypack (approximately 2500 to 3000 cubic inches)
Small wash towel
Personal Clothing items.
Sun hat or scarf
Light balaclava or warm fleece hat
Sunglasses with UV protection
Weight thermal tops
Fleece jacket or pullover
Fleece Wind-Stopper jacket (optional)
Waterproof (preferably breathable fabric) shell jacket
Down vest and/or jacket (optional)
Heavyweight gloves or mittens with a waterproof shell outer
Lightweight cotton long pants
Light and expedition weight thermal bottoms
Fleece or wool pants
Waterproof (preferably breathable fabric) shell pants
Thick, warm wool hiking socks
Hiking boots with spare laces
Camp shoes (sneakers and/or sandals)
Personal hygiene supplies;
Two tubes lip sun cream, at least 1 large tube regular sun cream (min. factor 30), some after-sun lotion in case you do get asunburn
One toothpaste/brush set;
One hand sanitizer gel
1 (fast drying) synthetic towel
Personal prescription medications; Please let your leader know about any medical issues before the climb;
Small personal first-aid kit; (Simple and Light): first-aid tape, plasters (Band-Aids), alcohol-free wipes for cuts, personal medications, etc. (The leaders will have more extensive first-aid kits);
One skin blister repair kit;
Anti-diarrhea pills (Imodium) (one regular package);
Anti-headache medication (Aspirin or Ibuprofen) (one regular package);
One small bottle cough and/or cold medicine;
One course antibiotics for chest infection, available locally at pharmacies with no doctor’s prescription;
One course antibiotics for stomach infection, available locally at pharmacies with no doctor’s prescription;
One small bottle anti-altitude sickness medication: Diamox (Acetylzolamide), available locally, for more about this medication, please contact us or your doctor;
One small bottle of water purification tablets (needs to contain silver-ions AND chlorine), available locally at pharmacies with no doctor’s prescription, or a water filter or UV sterilizer;
Extra prescription glasses/contact lens. Contact lens wearers, please bring glasses in case of emergency.